San Basilio de Palenque: The First Free African Town in the Americas

San Basilio de Palenque, or simply Palenke as the locals call it, is a unique village nestled in the Municipality of Mahates in the Bolivar department of northern Colombia. This remarkable place holds the distinction of being the first free African town in the Americas. In fact, back in 2005, it earned the title of a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity from UNESCO.

To understand the roots of Palenque, we have to rewind a few centuries. During the era of colonialism, enslaved Africans were brought to South America through the Magdalena River Valley, primarily arriving near the bustling port of Cartagena de Indias. In 1599, a brave group of around 30 enslaved individuals, led by the courageous Captain Benkos Biohó, decided enough was enough. They escaped into the forest and formed a community of Maroons, which were groups of escaped slaves. They faced off against a contingent of armed men sent to recapture them and emerged victorious, defeating their adversaries and claiming their independence.

As they continued northward, Benkos Biohó stumbled upon a piece of land that seemed perfect for establishing a settlement. So, in around 1600, he and his wife, Queen Wiwa, set up home in Matuna, a place surrounded by palisades (or wooden fences), which led to it being dubbed “Palenque.” Though the exact date of its founding is a bit fuzzy, local lore marks it as 1603, a date engraved on the statue of Benkos Bioho that stands proudly in the village plaza. The settlement was originally known as Palenque de San Miguel Arcángel and was comprised of both Bozales (those born in Africa) and Creoles (those born in the New World). Many of its inhabitants had connections to other nearby palenques.

Fast forward to January 1713, the community was officially renamed San Basilio Magno. By that time, records indicated there were around 137 homes in what was becoming a vibrant maroon community.

Benkos Biohó played an instrumental role in solidifying this community. He embraced his title of King Benkos, drawing in more runaways to join his thriving village. While initially, a truce was reached with the Spanish authorities, they eventually captured him, accusing him of treason and executing him in 1621. His legacy, however, lived on in the spirit of Palenque.

Over the years, the brave people of Palenque endeavored to liberate enslaved Africans arriving at Cartagena. Their efforts were so impactful that in 1691, the Spanish Crown issued a Royal Decree promising freedom to the citizens of Palenque if they agreed to stop assisting new escapees. But as is often the case with brave hearts, the pull of freedom remained strong, and many continued to flee to Palenque.

In 1696, local authorities quashed yet another uprising in the area. After protracted conflict from 1713-1717, Bishop Antonio María Casiani signed an Entente Cordiale, granting the community land rights on the condition they would cease to accept any new runaways. Unsurprisingly, they didn’t follow through on that agreement.

By 1772, Palenque became part of the Mahates district, provided they wouldn’t welcome any more escapees. Though the number of maroon communities throughout Colombia has decreased significantly over time, Palenque stands out because of its enduring spirit of resistance.

According to scholar Ludmila Ferrari, this community showcases a remarkable resilience:

“While other maroon communities were destroyed or dispersed, Palenque remained united as a community and preserved its creole language, its ‘African’ dances, its social organization in ‘kuagros,’ the mortuary ritual of ‘lumbalú,’ as well as a number of native traditions, many of which have unmistakable Bantu roots.”

This rich history, coupled with the community’s steadfast preservation of its cultural heritage, makes San Basilio de Palenque a significant part of not just Colombian history, but also the broader narrative surrounding the African diaspora in the Americas. The ongoing life and culture in Palenque remind us of the resilience and ingenuity of those who fought for freedom and a place to call their own. Today, this village continues to celebrate its unique roots, making it a fascinating destination for those curious about history, culture, and the enduring spirit of liberation.